10 IDEAS THAT SHINE FOR 2017
Bejeweled Magazine’s first in a series of to do, see and buy lists for the New Year. If you haven’t thought of your jewelry resolutions yet, why not add some of these and get your sparkle on for 2017.
1–HIT THE BOOKS
Flora: The Art Of Jewelry (Thames & Hudson, Feb 7) by Patrick Mauriès and Evelyne Posseme will offer you a glimpse into magical and exotic gardens of jewelers from the 1700’s through present day. Nature has always been source of inspiration from which creativity in jewelry sprouts and Flora, beautifully photographed by Jean-Marie del Moral, focuses on the stylized blooms of the 18th century to the more naturalistic varieties of the Art Nouveau period through to sculptural and realistic blossoms of modern times, Pieces included are all part of the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, and showcase some of the most delicately rendered brooches, pendants and rings that imitate flower pots (giardinetti designs) to bouquets to single sinuous stems and the prettiest of garden motifs . Jewelers such as René Lalique and Georges Fouquet and the more contemporary renowned housed such as Claude Lalanne, Lorenz Bäumer, and JAR are featured in this jewel of a book.
2– BE A EXHIBITION-ISTA
If you live close to Boston, take a day trip to see the Past Is Present: Revival Jewelry at The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston that delves into the subject of inspiration of ancient jewelry influencing the revivalist movements of the 19th century—archaeological, Etruscan, Egyptian and Renaissance. Authentic ancient pieces and the jewels they inspired will be on display with pieces by Castellani, Eugene Fontenay and Giacinto Melillo. There will also be a nod to the pieces reinterpreted again in the 20th Century with works by Cartier, Bulgari and Tiffany & Co. The exhibit runs from mid-February 2017 through mid-August 2017.
Or if Cincinnati is closer to your home base, The Taft Museum is featuringBijoux Parisiens: French Jewelry from the Petit Palais, Paris which explores the relationship and interplay of French art, fashion, and history. Featuring jewelry from the 17th through the mid-20th century, the exhibition begins with ornate Baroque adornments and traces jewels through neo-classical to modern Art Deco designs The jewelry by Cartier, Lalique, Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as a host of other renowned French houses comprise the 75 pieces on display. This exhibit runs from February 2, 2017-May 14, 2017.
3–GET IN ON THE HUNT
If you are searching for jewelry from a specific time period or looking to start or expand your collection, it’s time to spend a day at The Big Flea NYC. This show has switched venues and is being held for the first time at the Lexington Avenue Armory, January 21-22, 2017. There are a few bargains to be found, as well as rare pieces from a range of time periods. For all novice collectors, ask as many questions as you find necessary before plunking down your credit card.
Speaking of antique shows, The Original Miami Beach Show February 10 – 13, 2017 arrives in time to escape the cold and get in some serious antique and vintage jewelry shopping. Held in its new location at the Miami Fair Expo Center, this show attracts exhibitors from around the globe and features jewels from dealers who specialize in specific or all time periods, from the 1700s through present day. One of the biggest shows in the US—it’s important to give yourself enough time to ensure the pieces you want to purchase are authentic to their time period and in original condition.
4– SEE THE ROCKS ON THE BLOCK, IN PERSON
Whether you live close to the larger auction houses such as Christies, Sotheby’s, Bonham’s or Skinner’s of Boston or smaller houses, find one in your area and attend a preview in which you can try on the jewels and then an actual auction. It’s much more exhilarating and education up close and person. If it is your first time in the auction room, it’s better to watch and learn the process. If a piece has won your heart, set a limit for yourself on how much you are going to bid, and stick to it. Remember to also take into consideration the buyer’s premium and taxes where they apply.
5-GET RED CARPET READY
Awards season starts in one week on January 8th 2017 with the 74th Golden Globes, which kicks off red carpet jewelry watching. Tune in to see what celebrity trends will be made as the red carpet arrivals continue with The 23rd Annual (SAG) Screen Actors Guild Awards on Sunday, Jan. 29, 2017. This will culminate with the big event—the 89th Academy Awards, which will be held on February 26, 2017.
6-UNCOVER HIDDEN TREASURES
Breathe new life into a piece of jewelry or two that lays deeps within the dark recesses of your jewelry box. For example, if you lost one of a pair of earrings and have been toying with the idea of turning the remaining one into a pendant, but haven’t gotten around to it. It’s time to take it our and rethink you options. Instead of a pretty bauble around your neck, why not go for something more striking by re-fashioning it into a ring like this fire opal and rose diamond cluster ring with a simple shank. You can wear alone or stack with other rings and you might never miss the fact that it once had a mate.
If you have pearls that are desperately in need of restringing like I did (mine are ultra long) you can choose a subtle contrasting color thread rather than a matching one, add an odd pearl into the mix and perhaps another element such as a brooch which can clip strand into place if you wear it graduated two or three times. Here I have chosen a Lene Vibe pearl with small gold flowers and diamonds and an Art Nouveau dragonfly brooch in a textured gold with dematoid garnets.
7-SPEND A NIGHT AT THE MOVIES-
in front of your TV, revisiting a jewelry film classic such as Hitchcock’s Rear Window. When the film was released in 1954, women everywhere wanted to possess the style and elegance that Grace Kelly evoked as high-society fashion model ‘Lisa Fremont’ and her penchant for pearls and her grace in wearing them. In every scene she wears a different variation of pearls in chokers, graduated strands, earrings and a chunky charm bracelet. Her love interest in the film, ‘Jeff Jeffries’ (James Stewart), is wheelchair-bound after breaking his leg. Jeff is convinced that his neighbor across the way, costume jewelry salesman Lars Thorwald, has killed his wife, and so he enlists Fremont’s help and woman’s intuition to solve the murder mystery. This is when jewelry also becomes part of the plotline and dialogue—Jeff sees Mr. Thorwald’s take out of his draw, his wife’s handbag and goes through it, removing pieces of jewelry. Lisa explains in conversation with Jeff… “A woman has a favorite handbag and it always hangs on her bedpost where she can get at it easily…And that jewelry. Women don’t keep their jewelry in a purse, getting all twisted and scratched and tangled up.…And they don’t leave it behind either. Why, a woman going anywhere but the hospital would always take makeup, perfume, and jewelry…That’s basic equipment.” If you haven’t seen the film in years, it’s time to watch it again and get a dose of Hitchcock at his best, Kelly in pearl choker that became a classic and jewelry that helps solve the mystery.
This year, why not add the antique or retro piece that has been haunting your dreams to your collection. If you are a consummate collector, then it might be time to invest in the big-ticket item from the time period you have built your pieces around, rather than similar styles to those you already own. Not only are authentic pieces sound investments—many of them appreciating with time—they have provenance and sentimentality behind them. Many dealers and antique stores offer a layaway policy so if you cannot purchase it outright, you can pay it in installments over a period of time and then you will be secure in the fact that you aren’t going to lose it to another collector, like some of the other jewels you let ‘get away’.
9-IF YOU”VE GOT IT, FLAUNT IT
Or at least wear it. Too many of us, lock our ‘good’ jewelry away in the safe –only taking it out for special occasions. But why own it if we aren’t going to wear it. Think like the leading ladies of Hollywood in it’s Heyday—collectors like Joan Crawford, Mary Pickford, Paulette Goddard, Merle Oberon and the one and only Elizabeth Taylor –they didn’t stash their favorites away—they wore them happily and so should we! Just not all together!
10-MIX YOUR METALS
If you still subscribe to the yellow gold watch with the yellow gold bangles and earrings, then it’s time to re-think how you wear your jewelry. There is no right or wrong in mixed metals or combining different colors of stones. Women have understood tri-color gold in Cartier Trinity bands and bangles but what about wearing a white gold or stainless steel watch with a armful of yellow, white and rose gold bangles on the other wrist. You can also mix your different colored golds and platinum or silver in charm necklaces. When it comes to color of metal remember to always air on the side of the least expected combination—those pieces thrown together or chosen with more instinct and less ‘styling’ often look the best.