Designers Continue to Cultivate Floral Motifs
During fall/winter 2017 and spring/summer 2018, we reported that florals were in full bloom in both ready-to-wear and fine jewelry. Fashion designers have once again been cultivating them in splashy prints. intricated embroideries and colorful appliques for fall/winter 2018/19. On the catwalk, we saw everything from garden variety to lush tropical botanicals at houses such as Christian Dior, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana, to name just a few.
Jewelry designers have favored floral motifs throughout history and bring them back consistently with fertile imaginations — from stylized to abstract, three-dimensional to painterly, and rendered in all white diamonds or vibrant gemstones.
This season is no exception. One of the most dazzling jewels at the Cannes Film Festival were the orchid earrings the always impeccably styled Cate Blanchett’s wore from Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection. They sparkled in yellow sapphires, violet colored garnets, opals and tsavorites.
Floral designs sprouted up on other A-listers at Cannes. Boucheron’s ivy shape earrings climbed up Lea Seydoux ‘s ears in all white diamonds. Isabelle Huppert also wore earrings from Boucheron’s Nature Triomphante collection in the shape of graceful fuchsia flowers in elongated styles. Irina Shayk looked vibrant in floral studs from Chopard which complemented her red Versace gown.
Jewelry designers from these established houses of Chopard and Boucheron as well as smaller independent design studios are firmly planted in transforming sweet and romantic blossoms to lush and exotic floral motifs in precious metals, alternative materials and vivid gemstones.
Recently I saw the new Botanica collection by the Brazilian design genius of Silvia Furmanovich. Her marquetry technique which dates back to the sixteenth-century furniture joins different shades of wood together that include fallen pieces of tree bark and branches in a diverse variety of colors. This technique lends itself to sustainability and the most intricate of patterns and motifs when innovatively mixed with gold and gemstones. The Botanica collection comes alive in versions of orchids and pansies, among other flowers. The attention to the details found in nature, integral to Furmanovich’s design vocabulary, coupled with her masterful use of marquetry result in a collection of rare florals with a sculptural, three-dimensional quality.
Aida Bergsen is a designer whose aesthetic stems from playing in the gardens of her home in Istanbul. Here imaginative creations combine high karat gold with a variety of materials such as exclusively cut stones, colored gems in pave settings, enameled details, oxidized silver and diamond accents.
Lydia Courteille continues to grow and expand on her fantastical 3-D florals. We particularly love her harem style ring which features lilies of the valley which wind around the finger.
There are many other jewelry designers whose continue to capture and cultivate the rare beauty and essence of flowers in both life-like and enchanting fantasy versions.
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