Five Jewelry Staples according to Sotheby’s Frank Everett
Frank Everett, Senior VP Sales, Jewelry Department, Sotheby’s NY seems to know ‘what a girl wants’– or needs– when it comes to building a collection of fine jewelry. I followed him around the Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewelry Sale earlier this spring and I can still envision many of the signed Cartier, David Webb and Van Cleef and Arpels pieces draped around my neck, encircling my wrist and gleaming from my fingers.
The Fine Jewels preview was held in June. He explained, “this one is far more accessible in its estimates- and it’s fashion driven and fun.” It’s at this bi-annual sale that he believes woman can choose the five jewelry essentials to bid on as a foundation for building a collection. He suggests selecting pieces that are signed, with provenance, representative of a certain time period, retains their value or appreciates with time. Frank is the essence of his name–- he speaks frankly, advising you like you’re a close friend– and is passionate about what he does. In one of his videos in his series, Frank Files on Sotheby’s website, he discusses the five staples that he recommends every woman should own. His essential pieces include: diamond earrings, a cocktail ring, a statement necklace, a wide gold cuff and a brooch. “The pieces might change from sale to sale but the categories remain the same. Once you have these five, then you can add on,” Frank explains.
We go over some jewels- his favorites, my favorites. We take notes and come up with the following to illustrate the pieces that create a style-conscious and investment-savvy approach from the spring sale and to to give you and idea of the mix you might want to think about at the next sale- when you’re ready to get started and bid!
1-DIAMOND EARRINGS
Before ear climbers, there were clips. “I am going to assume that all women have classic stud earrings and we can move on to a timeless pair that are dainty, elegant and have a subtle glamour and Hollywood appeal.” Franks explains. These are signed Van Cleef & Arpels and are designed as floral garlands, set with round and baguette diamonds, mounted in platinum. There is a mechanism so the earrings can be clipped together and worn as a brooch.
Estimate: $12000-$15,000/ Sold: $28,000
2-A STATEMENT NECKLACE
Making a statement—not subtle but not too loud “Every woman needs a statement necklace—it finishes off an outfit and you can usually get away with wearing the necklace with small earrings and very little else.” says Frank.
Here we have an Aldo Cipullo for Cartier choker, a necklace shape that has been seen on the runways for the past two seasons. Yet, while it is on target with the trends, this one is enduring and unique. “Many women who know that Aldo Cipullo designed for Cartier associate him with the Love bracelet but he also designed many innovative pieces throughout his career at Cartier.” Frank explains. For a touch of color, and a necklace that is just bold enough, try this type of style in gold, chrysoprase and coral.
Estimate: $18,000 — 22,000 / Sold: $22,500 USD
3-THE BROOCH
Broaching the brooch. “It’s back and here to stay for some time. There are so many wonderful options to choose from throughout the 18th through 20th centuries,” says Frank. “And there are also so many ways to wear them, depending on your personal style. There is nothing like a brooch to set your collection apart.” This one is special. From Oscar Heyman Brothers, a 18K gold and platinum brooch designed as a strawberry, set with numerous cabochon rubies, topped by two diamond-set flowers. It is completed by leaves applied with green enamel, and little gold balls in between, designed to look like seeds. with maker’s mark.
Estimate: $12,000 — $ 18,000/ Sold: $24,000
4-THE CUFF BRACELET
Everybody loves a star- and this is definitely one in my book. When Frank started talking about needed a gold cuff as a staple–whether hard or flexible–my eye immediately went to this Van Cleef & Arpels 18K gold and diamond retro flexible bracelet with star-shaped motifs. It’s called the Ludo Hexagone Bracelet, and is set with round and single-cut diamonds and is signed Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1940. Gold cuffs can stand on their own- one ultra-wide style on one wrist but you can also wear two doubled up or the same or different bracelets on both wrists for more dramatic effect. “Those that are designed with enameling offer a little more pop but any gold cuff that is signed or features innovative techniques is one to own” Frank adds. 18 Karat Gold and Diamond, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: $10,000- 15,000/ Sold: $21,000
5-THE COCKTAIL RING
Shimmer and Shine “I just love the modernity of this current Cartier 18K white gold and diamond cocktail ring.” Says Frank. “It’s important to own pieces from different time periods. Pieces that are antique, retro or mid-century and are signed are going to continue to appreciate but don’t forget about the contemporary pieces that are also signed and will be vintage in 20 years from now,” he concludes. I think this is space age- a whole lot of fun and a much more intriguing look for a cocktail ring.
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000/ Sold: $6,000 with French assay and workshop marks.
We have given the hammer prices to illustrate how these pieces at auction can sell compared with their estimates.
