From the Prabal Gurung fall/winter 2017/18 runway show
It seems that both fashion and jewelry designers have a lot to say this season. We saw words and sayings scrawled across T-shirts, sweaters and dresses during the fall/winter 2017-18 ready to wear shows. In fine jewelry, a category in which the best pieces are personal and make a statement, messages and mottoes are spelled out and engraved in gold or silver or set with diamonds and gemstones. Other styles have words and symbols that tell a story or a motif on the front and the meaning on the back.
Foundrae’s dream pendant in two sizes
Whether your jewelry speaks to feelings of empowerment, love, spirituality or political views, what better way to express yourself than wearing your thoughts, beliefs and emotions, on your neck, fingers and wrists.
Eden Presley’s group of diamond and gold ‘Mantra’ saying and word bracelets
Eden Daniels of The Eden Collective’s personal collection of 19th Century meaning bracelets in different languages including French, German and English.
Suneera’s sterling silver Carpe Diem bracelet set with a diamond on each side from the message collection of bracelet’s and rings.
These modern pieces borrow from different cultures and centuries throughout history, from ancient Sanskrit to Latin, or in their nod to puzzle jewelry of the past, particularly the Victorian era, in which phrases or words and symbols create a message.
Lucien Falize’s circa 1880 Recuerdo (memento) brooch fashioned as a medieval manuscript. It contains two messages, the one that reads memento and the other in the form of a pansy (pensee in French) which translates to think and in jewelry to think of the giver. Courtesy of Wartski, London.
The Eden Collective’s modern interpretation on a classic Victorian Intaglio in which he word friend and the motif of a ship form “Friendship”
Retrouvai’s all seeing eye in gold set into lapis
Here is the back of the Retrouvai piece which could be worn in reverse to show the meaning of the eye as Wisdom
Circa 1700’s vintage enamel and modern interpretations of vintage enamel pieces combined. The Bonne Chance and the Oui, ? Non are new.
For the last several years acrostic jewelry, in which the first letter of each gemstone spells out a term of endearment (first popularized in the 18th century) has also been revisited by contemporary designers and continues to be an ongoing theme.
Regency period Regard acrostic heart locket from Sue Brown Antiques
The Three Graces early 19th Century Regard Ring
Lulu’s Frost’s modern take on acrostic jewelry in her “Code” collection. Here a ring with first letter of each stone spelling out “Always and Forever”
Posy (poetry) rings, which we covered in our first issue of Bejeweled were interpreted in various ways from the medieval through Georgian periods, first in verse and symbols, which was often engraved and enameled on the outside of the ring and then in secret declarations of love in old English or French on the inside of thin gold bands which eventually became betrothal or wedding rings. Current versions of poesy rings are offered in styles that hark back to the past or those that are ultra modern with sayings and messages that speak of strength, courage and female empowerment as well as romantic gestures.
Berganza’s 17th century ‘Lyve In Hope” ring show from all different parts of the inside to feature the full message
Erica Molinari’s Latin and Italian phrases engraved on the outside of her rings
Monica Rich Kosann’s Posy ring necklace collection spells out everything from inspiration sayings to words of love on the inside
Sandra Cronan, know for her impeccable assortment of antique through mid-century jewelry in her London shop also created this modern enamel posy and memorial rings with a nod to the past
Sayings and famous quotes in Italian and French feel romantic and hold different significance for each person who wears the piece.
Whatever the message, in a time when tweeting, texting and other forms of short messages or ‘stories’ that last for 24 hours have taken over more personal forms of communication, these pieces are powerful, not only in their meanings but in their heartfelt sentiments, permanence and longevity.
Zadig & Voltaire’s Muse Sweater from the fall/winter 2017/18 runway show
Erica Weiner’s Edwardian bloodstone intaglio ring which says “Percusa Resurgo” which is Latin for
“Struck Down, I Rise”
Eden Presley message and motif flip ring
Circa 1700’s contemporary Victory medallions inspired by the Victory tokens worn by the British during the WWI & WWII. Crafted from 14k & 18k gold with enamel and rubies, the medallion to the right is inscribed on the back with Winston Churchill’s famous quote – “If you’re going through hell, keep going.”
Designer Jennifer Las of Genevieve Lau Love necklace. In this collection for each piece she sells, she donates one LOVED or to a woman or child with cancer.